BILL AND YNDIE (WWW.SOLOCARIBE.COM)

Family reunion Royal Sonesta Boston

2010-06-22T21:33:00.000-07:00

Royal Sonesta, Boston...overlooking the Charles River

Thinking about hanging out in Boston with family and friends in a sophisticated green oriented hotel gave us a good feeling, knowing that we could enjoy some of the finer amenities in life without detriment to society. After attending Caribbean Week in N.Y. City we were exhausted and Yndie and I were looking forward to the four hour car ride to Boston. This would be the first time I had seen my kids and grandchildren in two years and this was special in that I was going to introduce them to my partner, Yndie.

My daughter Courtney, as beautiful as ever...great necklace

The greening of hotels is a relatively new concept that is rapidly taking hold in the U.S. and globally, and we are glad to be a part of it. After checking in we headed to the outside patio of the Sonesta to imbibe in a glass of vino while watching the sailboats on the Charles River. This well known river divides Boston from Cambridge and is the site of much activity, rowing, sailing, jogging, dog walking and about anything else one can do on a beautiful sunny day in the northeast. We knew we made the right decision in staying here, as this is a walking town and our location was excellent.

Main lobby

We were greeted with friendly and helpful faces, not just well trained, but sincerity that showed management takes an active role in hiring people that appropriately fit their respective positions.

Bedroom with a view

Our junior suite was very nicely appointed and spacious with soft muted colors. The bathroom was large with high counter tops and an excellent assortment of amenities. Yndie immediately took off her shoes and slipped into a pair of complimentary velvet slippers, settling in for the evening.

The Family, Jason, Melissa, Jacob, Madison, Courtney, Bill and Yndie

Our furniture was comfortable modern Danish with a firm king size bed sporting comforters beckoning one to resist early morning risings. Two large screen flat TV’s adorned the walls of the living and bedroom. Our room had an excellent view of the river, as do most of the others, great for watching activity on the Charles River.

The Crew and Madison's new tatoo

My children showed up, as well as Yndie’s best friend and colleague from Venezuela, Melania Suarez who now lives in Worchester. Here was a real mix of cultures.., two Venezuelan journalists, speaking both Spanish and English and focusing on the world soccer teams. My son who is a sports fanatic immediately hit it off with Melania , discussing the intricacies of soccer, baseball and any other sports played on this planet. My grandchildren, Jacob and Madison were having a ball in the grand bed, watching the flat screen while we were schmoozing and sipping wine in the living room.

Yndie and Melania.., chating, laughing, and reminiscing after four years

Museum of Science with the family

As the evening progressed our stomachs were starting to rumble, so we headed downstairs in search of the ArtBar, finding world-class art surrounding you in a cozy and intimate environment, serving seasonal organic American cuisine along with an impressive wine list and specialty cocktails.

Sonesta's ArtBar patio overlooking the Charles River

After tasty snacks and drinks, our next stop was the north end for pasta and seafood in Little Italy.

Madison, my grand-daughter

Boston's Little Italy on a rainy night.., still beautiful and charming

The following day was a Sunday...

A ten minute walk around the Charles River put us on the doorstep of the fabulous Boston Museum of Science. The kids were in heaven.

Electrical energy demonstrations

Jacob's floating creation...

Bill, Courtney, Jay and Madison

Melania, Jason and me

Here one can spend endless hours, whether child or adult cruising the large exhibitions, seeing dinosaurs or indulging in science or physics demonstrations.

Melissa, Jay and Jacob

Courtney helping Madison

The Family, but where's Yndie...behind the camera as usual

After several hours of play it was good to get back to the hotel.

The following day we said our good-byes to family and friends and had a day to ourselves, exploring center city Boston, parks, and restaurants. We were on the road the next morning, heading to Philadelphia.

The Royal Sonesta offers Courtesy Van Service to shopping areas and historic sites both in Boston and Cambridge on a daily schedule. Special programs during the year offer added services and discounts as seen with their Summer Fest, where this AAA 4-diamond 400-room hotel is totally dedicated to going “green,” as seen by their extensive recycling program, low-flow water accessories, organic and local produce utilization and their commitment to donating all leftover perishable foods to Second Helping at the Greater Boston Food Bank. This is an entity which gives back to the system and one that will hopefully be emulated by others.

If your looking at a family oriented trip, the Royal Sonesta has a lot to offer, comfort, an outstanding location, a great pool, friendly staff and a great river for walking, jogging or bicycling. Summer is here and if you’re thinking Boston on the river, this is the place to stay.

Yacht Club on the Charles River

Royal Sonesta’s can be found in Boston, New Orleans, Miami, Orlando, St. Maarten, Brazil, Peru and Egypt. Visit them at http://www.sonesta.com/
You can also call at 800.Sonesta (800.766.3782) in the U.S. and Canada.

Bellavista Bed and Breakfast: Old world charm with a funky flavour

2010-06-18T20:46:00.000-07:00

Have you ever walked into a place and thought, wow… I feel great here, not sure what it is but it sure feels good. Kicking off the shoes and walking on old wooden floors that welcome your footsteps with a softness that belies their innate hardness was one of the thrills I experienced on entering our room in the Italian section of Philadelphia. Large oriental carpets cover and invite one to sink their feet into a well traveled path dating back more than one hundred and fifty years. This was the place, no doubt about it, we’re staying here...

http://www.philadelphiabellavistabnb.com/

Having just made a Wilmington, N.C.- New Jersey- New York city- Boston loop, we were on our way home to N.C. and a stopover was necessary to split up the 16 hour run. After a brief look at rooms in New Jersey at ridiculous prices, my partner, Yndie said , why not Philadelphia…and I thought, yea, that makes sense, it’s a great city, I lived there for seven years during the eighties and loved it and I mean loved it. It’s a manageable city, full of ethnic diversity, great restaurants, eclectic people, inviting walks, it’s got it all. The decision was obvious, but where…

Thanks for technology, we goggled, Bed and Breakfast in South Philadelphia and Bellavista B & B popped up. We put in a call and Barbara, one of the owners answered immediately, she and her husband were on their boat somewhere in Maryland. After an extended chat, reminiscing about the old times in Philadelphia, I knew that this was it, and it was.

Garland of Letters...South Street
Di Brunos

My ex-wife and I lived in Queen Village, just a stone’s throw from the Italian market area, where we were always seeking out the best red sauce in the area. That was twenty-five years ago but I knew that the Italian market area was still basically unchanged, great food, great people, interesting architecture, superb cheese shops,( similar to Europe), and restaurants steeped in old Mafioso history, some with the spirits of Mafioso Dons still haunting them from their premature demise while shoveling in huge amounts of linguine.

One phone call from Barbara to Mary Lou, a neighbor who oversees the B&B and lives across the street and we were in. This beautiful three story row home tucked away on a quiet street in South Philly with its high ceiling, long corridors and its variety of rooms was our home for the next two days and I was very happy.
Italian Market

It was great to be back in Philly and especially the Italian section. This would be considered an eclectic B&B, maybe very eclectic, as it has a variety of brightly colored walls and ceilings, antiques, bric-a-brac and other chackas, appealing to the European, the “open” American and maybe those on small doses of cannabis. This is a very appealing environment to hang out in for several days and centrally located near just about everything, especially if you’re a walker.., great way to get exercise and enjoy the beauty of the city!

Di Bruno's cheese shop...9th street
Our first day was spent walking the city, first the Italian market, buying imported Asiago cheese, along with stuffed grape leaves smothered in garlic and olive oil, then on to Rittenhouse Square, one of the most beautiful and civilized parks in Philly, where people watching and an espresso at Le Colombe(voted the best espresso bar in the U.S.)is a must. Next we were off to China town where we enjoyed a light lunch at a vegetarian restaurant, then on to the liberty bell and back to our B&B.

It was like returning home, except without my audio system…

Later in the afternoon we met up with Jessica, a charming Colombian student at Drexel University, managing the premises, who gave us a tour of the different rooms, their styles, colors and decorations. Unbeknownst to us, there is a wine cooler with a decent selection that is complimentary to those staying in the rooms, of which we imbibed and enjoyed every last drop.

South Philly (BellaVista section) is a piece of Italy that retains that old world charm, now mixed with other ethnic cultures that together somehow fuse and yet symbiotically exist in an environment that makes it all work.

We want to say thanks to the owners, Dan and Barbara who's B&B have enriched our lives in a very short period of time and given me a renewed appreciation of all that this area has to offer. My partner Yndiana Montes from Venezuela, loves my old home and looks forward to returning as soon as possible, and that makes me happy. We will return to Bella Vista B&B and again enjoy a piece of that old world charm rarely found in the U.S.

A RASTA DAY in Montego Bay, Jamaica, by Bill Milligan

2010-02-26T13:10:00.000-08:00

Yndie, "First Man" and Andrea Purkiss, Public Relation Manager of the Rasta Village

Montego Bay, JAMAICA, February 2010.- Approximately fifteen minutes of driving through lush jungle on a winding road outside of Montego Bay, we reach our destination, a Rastafarian Village, tucked away from society on beautiful petit rolling hills, dotted with vibrant colors, tropical birds and thick towering bamboo. This is one of sixteen Rastafarian groups found in Jamaica.

Mrs Nelson preparing Ackee & Saltfish in their open air kitchen

Typical Jamaican dish, Ackee & Saltfish

On a warm sunny Jamaican morning we had the opportunity of visiting this Rastafarian village, along with a group of uniformed High school students. We were inititally met by the owners of the estate, the Nelson's and their daughter Andrea, who have donated a portion of their land to promote the Rastafarian lifestyle.

First Man introducing high school students to the Village

Welcoming all and preparing for symbolic cleansing with crossing of stream

After our meeting with the Nelson's, we were introduced to "First Man," a tall and imposing figure,who gave us a general description of the compound and respectful rules to follow. As we descended a gently sloping hill we came upon a beautiful, clear stream, separating the compound from the estate.

Preparing for the crossing

One of the older students

The "Crossing"

Learning about natural foods used in the Village

Official Welcoming by "First Man"

Crossing this stream was like a symbolic cleansing, before entering on sacred land. Not so far off in the distance, we heard the sound of gentle drumming, bathing our ears with a soothing rhythm, interrupted with brief staccato attacks, preparing our auditory senses for an interesting day. With the drumming in the background, "First Man's" baritone voice quietly continued his explanation of the many medically important indigenous plants, fruits and vegetables used by the Rastas on a daily basis. The smell of wood burning and the pungent scent of cannabis lingering in the background combined with the drumming, had a very calming effect on our sense of reality. With two of our sensory systems, (olfactory & auditory) becoming acclimated to our new envirnoment and our inhibitions lessening, we were now well on the road to opening to the Rasta experience.

Ackee, originally from Australia, now grown all over Jamaica

A walking interview with "First Man"

Officially entering the Village

Initial greeting and drinking of coconut water

The "Coconut Man" decapitating coconut heads for it's water and meat

As we ascended the gentle hill, the drumming and scents were accentuated on entering the Village. We were met by other Rastas, who offered us coconut water out of halved gourds, while we sat and “took in” the warm, relaxed and friendly ambience of our new surroundings.

"Wise man", Iion Kanaka (life style and transformation coach), at the relaxation hut

"Wise Man" educating students

Gospel like vocals

The Drummers

Students and drummers

Extolling the virtues of organic growing and eating...

Students with Ras Tafarian, (Haile Selassie l), a major figure in Rastafarian history

Haile Selassie l, emperor of Ethiopia.

As we sat drinking coconut water, about twenty feet away the drummers were playing under an open aired Palapa, used for ceremonies, music and educational presentations.

"Tea Hut"

To our right was the Rasta colored “Tea Hut”, where food and drink were prepared and dispensed by the women of the community. After our coco water we were taken on a tour of the compound, showing us the herbal gardens and organic farming area. A variety of huts were utilized for different purposes; Spa hut for massages and herbal baths, craft hut for selling locally made products and the Reason hut, for exhibits and educational functions.

Preparing part of lunch...

Grating coconut to be used in making coco oil...

Sitting on top of an open wood burning stove, a large pot filled with shredded coconut boiled, ultimately ending up as coconut oil, used in many of their food preparations.

Demonstration table in main hut

Educational tools, organic herbs, fruits and vegetables

An educational exhibit was given under the main hut by one of the members, extolling the benefits of natural eating and shunning its opposite brethren. This was a well done and very specific talk on processed foods, their determental affects and how to read and understand labeling on bottles, cans, etc. This lecture would do well in every school room in the U.S., beginning in elementary schools.

Walking labyrnith
Bamboo labyrinth...used for contemplation

On top of a small hill stands a walking labyrinth, made of thick cut off pieces of bamboo. Interestingly these go back many hundreds of years, originating in the Far and Middle East, and used for contemplation and problem solving. The Chinese observed how powerful these could be in liberating the filter between the subconscious and the consciousness, allowing the inner psyche to surface and bringing resolution to deep seated problems. Unfornuately neurosis and psychosis are exacerabated, so consequentely those with these pre-existing conditions were not allowed to walk the paths. One would think that the combination of the warm Jamaican sun, rhythmic drumming, cannabis and labyrinth walking, would be a magical concoction to entering the subconscious.

Taking a coconut milk break from drumming

As we sat under the warm Jamaican sun with a potpouri of scents in the background, listening to the drummers and enjoying our Rasta hosts, we gave thanks for the opportunity of experiencing this rich and varied culture. The Rastafarians have given Jamaica a special place in historyand have shared this with the world via its music and culture. With Rastafarian lifestyles found on every continent, there is only one place where you experience the real thing, and that's Jamaica. The world has Jamaica to thank for permitting this beautiful culture to survive and thrive.

This life style proposes healthy organic eating, self sufficiency, peacefullness, conservation, education and avoidance of alcohol. While not the lifestyle for all, there are many positive attributes to be gained from observing the Rastafarian culture. We thoroughly enjoyed our temporary stay, and plan to return on our next trip to Jamaica.

For reservations please contact: andrea_purkiss@yahoo.com

First Man's email adress: blessings@rastavillage.com

www.rastavillage.com

Tourism Outlook Seminar Jamaica... A Success!

2010-02-16T15:40:00.000-08:00

Tourism Outlook Seminar...A Success!

MONTEGO BAY, JAMAICA, February 2010.- The Third Annual Tourism Outlook Seminar, held over two days at the Ritz-Carlton Golf & Spa Resort, Rose Hall, began with the theme of thinking out of the box, actually getting rid of the box, in an effort to stimulate creative thinking in an environment for future survival of tourism in the Caribbean.

Bill Milligan and Yndiana Montes were part of the invited press

Regional and international leaders discussed the present atmosphere, its future and strategies for surviving shrinking dollars in a contracted economy, especially in the US and UK. Jamaica’s Minister of Tourism Edmond Bartlett noted that new markets, investment, and technology were essential to weather this economic storm and prepare for the unknown in the future. Feedback received from the attendees was very positive and the Minister announced that this seminar will be planned again for 2010, and proudly called it “The Davos of Tourism”.

Maloney represented the travel agents (ASTA)

The session “Maintaining the Competitive Edge” was chaired by Hugh Riley, and travel agents were represented by William Maloney, Chief Executive Offices of ASTA. “Dealing with the Changing Travel Distribution Channels” discussed the negative impact on travel agents with the burgeoning Internet market, via Web exchanges for traveling professionals, buyers guides, learning communities, Facebook, blogs, etc. Too much media information according to Maloney is now overtaxing the potential tourist, and this is where travel agents can step in and sort out the multitude of confusing paths, ensuring the tourist a hassle free vacation.

Bill in one of his interventions as a member of the International Press

Among the presenters were John Lynch, Director of the Jamaica Tourism Board, Carlos Vogeler, UNWTO’s Regional Representative for the Americas; Hugh Riley, Secretary General and CEO of Caribbean Tourism Organization, Alec Sanguinetti, CD â€“Director General & CEO of the Caribbean Hotel Tourism Association, Jim Brody, International sales Manager-Destination marketing of TripAdvisor, Logan Stanton, World Economic Forum’s Head of North America, Williard Phillips, ECLAC’s Economic Affairs Officer, Vincent Vanderpool-Wallace, Minister of Tourism of The Bahamas, and Chad Meyerson, head of Sales Caribbean and Latin America of JetBlue Airways.

Yndie interviewing Hugh Riley

The deliberations on opening day included a session on Maintaining the Competitive Edge, chaired by Secretary General of the Caribbean Tourism Organization Hugh Riley and Marketing in a time of rapid fire Changes, the first of two panel discussions to be moderated by David Shields, Deputy Director of Tourism, Marketing at the Jamaica Tourist Board (JTB).

Lynch commented on increased charter flights from major Canada cities, but also noted the difficulty for Latin American markets, due to visa hassles coming through Miami. Direct charters from major Latin American cities, possibly new routes coming through Cancun (Mexico) or other Caribbean islands could circumvent these major obstacles. We know that JTB is putting a plan together for exploring the potential of entering Latin America.

Carlos Vogeler, Alec Sanguinetti, Minister Barlett and glamorous Mrs. Flavia Sanguinetti at the opening reception at the Hilton Rose Hall

Alec Sanguinetti, Director General & CEO of CTHA presented an overview of the Strategies for Intra Regional Travel Marketing, noting this is decreasing due to the lack of flights and the high cost of aviation travel as compared with cruise lines. “The reality is that our challenge is not that we do not know what to do, our failure is a lack of implementation of the things that we have agreed to do”, he said referring to the San Juan Accord of 2007. Another topic of financial concern for the hoteliers is the major advantage the cruise ships have, in that they pay minimal fees for port calls, the tourists spend little money for their time in port, and the hospitality industry suffers financially. Cruise ships circumvent visa issues, something the airline industry can’t shake.

JTB Director Noel Lynch, Yndie, Minister Barlett and Carlos Vogeler in one of the cozy coffee breaks

“Innovation Through Technology” was the opening session of the second day, and left more than one delegate with mouths wide open. Social media (Non-traditional Media) and social networking are taking front stage these days. More and more hotels are investing time, tracking, even on a daily basis, what blogs, Facebook etc. are now saying to them. We asked opinions of several presenters, among them Carlos Vogeler, and the response was unanimous: the tourism sector needs to wake up to this burgeoning social networking, lest they be left in the dust.

Hugh Riley and Jorn Gieschen

“Barriers to Growth, Tax and Visa Issues” was delivered by Hugh Riley, Secretary General and CEO of the Caribbean Tourism Organization on the second day. He discussed the ongoing progressive increase in departure taxes from London, England, and how it has impacted all Caribbean markets. Giving an example, he said that, “now for a family of four, the cost of a Caribbean vacation is approximately 300 pounds extra, just in departure taxes. With the current British policy this portends a gloomy market for the near future”.

Chad Meyerson, JetBlue

Airlift is as important as water for the tourism industry, and that’s why the Panel Discussion “The Roadmap to Recovery: Effective Airlift” moderated by David Shields, the Marketing Deputy Director of Tourism, received impressive participation from attendees. The “new kid on the block” was Chad Meyerson, Head of Sales Caribbean & Latin America of JetBlue Airways, whose presentation “Perspective from a Superior service Low Fare Carrier” helped minimize the negative image, previously associated with low cost airlines. The panel of experts included Air Jamaica’s President and CEO Bruce Nobles; US Airways’ Manager International Route Planning Brian Council; and British Airways Head of UK & Ireland Sales and Marketing, Richard Tams.

Carlos Vogeler, Carolle Guntley, Yndie and Bill

At the closing cocktail party, Carrole Guntley summed it up in three words: “Nothing but good” from this seminar. She received compliments from Carlos Vogeler (UNWTO): “JTB made excellent choices on the speakers. No session was too long, coffee and snack breaks were superb and I was very impressed with the participation of the delegates, the engagements, the questions..., I think the expectations for the Third Tourism Outlook next year in Jamaica are going to be outstanding ”, he said.

For more information about the Seminar, and to find out more about the presenters, please go to:
http://www.visitjamaica.com/tourismseminar/overview.aspx
Bill and Yndie are thankfull for the invite to JTB and its PR agency in NY, Ruderfinn.

Manatees, a Role Model for Society?? By Bill Milligan

2010-01-28T21:42:00.001-08:00

Bill & Yndie with Maricruz and Alejandro at Dolphin Discovery

Just what is it about hopping into the water with a 700 pound manatee, lumbering along, noshing on vegetation, that brings one to realize that our society has a lot to learn from these gentle creatures. These mammals belong to the Sirenia order, believed to have evolved from four-legged land mammals more than 60 million years ago. Their closest living relatives are elephants and hyraxes (jack rabbit like mammals). Their scientific name is Trichechus manatus, meaning three (Tri) and chechus (nails), also known as “tits” amongst the indigenous of the Caribbean.

The Happy Mammals...

MANATEES AT DOLPHIN DISCOVERY
PR Manager Maricruz Alfaro de la Barrera knew so many things about these mammals...: “These docile creatures seek out warm and safe environments, gravitating to shallow, marshy coastal areas and rivers of the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, Amazon basin and West Africa. Dolphin Discovery at Puerto Aventuras had the pleasure of birthing the first manatee in captivity in the state of Quintana Roo, Mexico. In 2008, as part of the XXXVI Annual Convention of the International Marine Animal Trainers (IMATA), Dolphin Discovery broke old myths about manatee behavior, demonstrating that learning was accomplished much faster than previously known”, she said as we were heading to Isla de Mujeres, about a 30 minute boat ride from Cancun.
Dolphin Discovery began their training program with manatees in 2001 when they received two stranded manatees (Trichechus manatus) at its facility in Puerto Aventuras.
While information on general care of manatees was available, there was little information on their training. Their slow nature and non-aggressiveness led the coaching staff to believe that animals learn much slower than the dolphins, and training would take longer. This preconception guided them to go slow and very methodical in their first attempts at training. "Over time we learned that manatees are smarter than they appear and we adjusted our training techniques with measurable results," said Alejandro Mata, training supervisor at Dolphin Discovery. The arrival of new manatees in 2007 gave the coaching staff an opportunity to apply what they learned and compare the rate of learning among with the original manatees’. Silvia Becerra, trainer of Dolphin Discovery said: "What we learned was that our first manatees were not slow learners, but it was the teachers. Note that Dolphin Discovery is the only place in the world with interactive Swimming with manatees, created not only to entertain guests, but to create awareness for the respect and protection of these beautiful marine mammals.

The manatees main predators are sharks, alligators, crocodiles and orcas, with man being number one, inflicting more morbidity and mortality than all the others combined. The props from outboard motors, both small and large are the main culprits, lacerating their backs, eviscerating them and leading to death. Some manatees’ are now recognized by the distribution and number of scars on their backs. Manatees hear on higher frequencies, and most large boats emit lower frequencies, somehow resulting in a deadly attraction between the two, with mortal consequences inescapable. Interestingly, when faced with higher frequencies, manatees’ immediately head in the other direction, sensing danger. Another man made problem is fishing nets, posing a big drowning hazard and lastly the swallowing of non-organic matter, ie, plastic bottles. Manatee hunting predates Christopher Columbus. Native Americans used the hides for making canoes, shoes and shields and their bones for “special potions”.

Manatees need fresh water sources...

MANATEES AT XEL-HA
Xel-Ha, an all inclusive eco-archeological theme park, located approximately 70 miles south of Cancun was one of our stops on the manatee tour. This ocean inlet and lagoon was an absolute joy to visit and spend the whole day, either in the crystal clear waters, snorkeling, tubing, small cliff diving, or walking along beautifully manicured paths, cut through the jungle, with parrots squawking above and iguanas basking below in the sun. A large open air palapa roofed restaurant served excellent Mexican and Mayan cuisine, along with an assortment of International dishes, all downed with cold Mexican beers, margaritas or other exotic drinks. Makes my mouth water, as I sit here writing this.

The manatee's trainers we met at Xel-Ha were very kind, devoted, and bonded with these gentle mammals and obviously protective and loving toward them. It was a real pleasure to have met these gentle trainers and see their interaction with the manatees’. We will return to Xel-Ha, and enjoy it even more the second time, hopefully in the near future.
So, what do manatees’ have to teach us…Why are they pre-historic survivors? How do they fit in the ecological chain?
“Manatees are the only marine mammals that are herbivores and can weigh up to 2,000 pounds and reach more than 3.60 meters, approximately 10 feet in length. They are monogamous and typically breed once every two years, with gestation lasting 12-13 months, and the weaning process taking another 12-18 months. Nursing is accomplished with mammary glands located under their armpits, after which, they leave home and lead a solitary existence. In captivity they consume lettuce heads, up to 200 per day, or approximately 10% of their weight, according to the trainers.

A gentle stroke on the back of this kind mammal...

As we were standing in the salt water holding area, the trainers continued explaining: “Manatees spend half a day sleeping in water, with much of the rest, grazing at shallow depths (3-6 feet), surfacing at regular intervals for air. The adults have only a set of cheek teeth, which continually replace themselves, growing from the back towards the front, and totaling no more than six at one time. Their upper lip is large and flexible, somewhat resembling a very foreshortened trunk of an elephant and used for gathering food and eating, along with social interaction and communication. Having no incisor or canine teeth and thus being unable to aggressively flash them, was perhaps nature’s way of keeping them close to shore, seeking non-threatening shallow waters and avoiding incisor (ripping or tearing) like environments. There’s probably a similar corollary with humans, especially with aging and increasing dental problems”.
One fascinating thing I observed at Xel-Ha, was the trainers technique of putting them in a receptive mood to interact with people. With his hands not touching the skin, he would trace backwards on the head and neck, tracing a meridian known in Chinese medicine, as Triple Burner/Warmer, involved with the fight-flight-freeze reaction. Meridians are documented energy lines that traverse humans and animals and have been used in acupuncture for five thousand years. When one traces a meridian backwards, this has the effect of calming it and its recipient, and in this instance making one more docile, at least temporarily. This maneuver was repeatedly seen as the trainer would initiate either a training session or prepare them for human interaction. This was my first exposure seeing this technique used in the animal world.

The manatee trainers Sergio and Hilda with one of their friends at Xel-Ha

MORE FINDINGS ABOUT MANATEES
Often they will congregate near power plants, enjoying the warmer water and forgetting about the natural migration that occurs with seasonal changes. This has now become a problem when the plants close, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service are seeking ways to warm the waters. The manatees, (Trichechus Manatus) of the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Ocean, cannot survive in water less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit, due to their low metabolic rate. They can move easily within salinity extremes but require fresh water for proper osmoregulation.
The manatees main predators are sharks, alligators, crocodiles, orcas and man, with his outboard motors, inflicting lacerations to its back, sometimes eviscerating them and leading to death. Some manatees’ are now recognized by the distribution and number of scars on their backs. Manatees hear on higher frequencies, and most large boats emit lower frequencies, somehow resulting in the two coming more in contact with each other, to the detriment of the manatee. When faced with higher frequencies, manatees’ immediately head in the other direction, sensing danger. As manatees’ need to surface every 20 minutes, fishing nets pose a big drowning hazard and lastly the swallowing of non-organic matter, ie, plastic bottles. Manatee hunting predates Christopher Columbus. Native Americans used the hides for making canoes, shoes and shields and their bones for “special potions”.
Perhaps manatees could be role models for us, demonstrating that passivity, gentleness and affection are qualities that are consistent with survival. There continued loss is sad, as it upsets the precarious balance of aggression and non-aggression, with the former already far in the lead. The Chinese have understood this balance for more than five thousand years, through the Yin/Yang principle, with a balance between the two consistent with good health and longevity. Obviously, not only in our society but almost all, this balance was lost a long time ago, and does not look destined for a quick return. Hopefully we can maintain the manatee population and their positive attributes. We look forward to the next encounter with our gentle friends when we visit Quintana Roo, Mexico.

Bill & Yndie are very thankfull to Fideicomiso Riviera Maya and OVC Cancun for arranging their visit to Xel-ha and Dolphin Discovery

Maya Encounter - Alltournative tours... (Mayan Riviera)

2010-01-10T20:44:00.000-08:00

www.alltournative.com/tours-products/maya-encounter

Here we are in our Mayan limousine, with our authenic Mayan driver. We are in the historic village of Cobá..., but let's start from the beginning!
Welcome to Bill and Yndie's mini-ventures. Today we will be experiencing a Mayan Encounter journey that will bring us to an authentic Mayan village, a self-sufficient Mayan community living next to an integral part of the region's lagoon system. We will walk through the Maya community's forest, learning the mysteries of their local fauna and flora. Our Guide Alejandro was very fluent in English and could answer any question we threw at him. We appreciated his respect shown to the Mayan elders and the local jungle, with which this alone comes our recommendation for this tour. Details and information will be found at the botton of this photo-article.

Alltournative tours picked us up at the hotel, and with no more that 9 people we were off and running in a roomy comfortable van, heading towards an ancient Mayan encounter with Coba. At 10:30 AM we were in the 1,500 year-old historical ancestral city of Cobá, an archaeological site hidden deep inside the rain forest of the south-eastern Yucatan Peninsula. Climbing the Nohoch Muul temple (the tallest pyramid of the state), we admired the pristine beauty and immeasurable vastness of the surrounding sub-tropical rain forest and the historic site itself. Very impressive, walking the hallowed grounds, where ancient cultures thrived more than a thousand years ago.

Here in Cobá we enjoyed a two-hour guided tour, which included a visit to Mayan temples, the legendary ball game area, where the losers were sacrificed, and the Nohoch Muul Temple (the tallest pyramid in the Yucatan).

At noon we departed for the tour of the Mayan Village, where we had the opportunity to see how the Mayas lived on a daily basis, and experienced this haunting lost spiritual world hidden in the vast shrub jungle. Together with the locals, after walking through their forest, learning of the local fauna and flora and many of their medical uses, we met a shaman and experienced a simple ceremony, giving thanks to Mother Nature for her many wonders, the water, the forest, the birds and the cenotes, among many other things.

This was an unforgettable off-track adventure: exciting zip-line flying over an incredibly beautiful Cenote, a refreshing swim, rappelling down into another Cenote, and canoe paddling on a lagoon of enormous beauty. And to end it all, a delicious traditional lunch prepared by the women of this Mayan community. Afterwards we Canoed/kayaked on a crystal clear lagoon and enjoyed a refreshing swim, followed by hanging out in a hammock and pondering the enormity of what it was like to live in this envirnoment fifteen hundred years ago.

If you go to the Mayan Riviera, don't miss the opportunity of this wonderful tour!
www.alltournative.com/tours-products/maya-encounter

CTO announces return of its STC

2010-01-08T12:24:00.000-08:00

11th Annual Caribbean Conference on Sustainable Tourism, May 9-12, 2010, Bridgetown, Barbados

BRIDGETOWN, Barbados (January 8, 2010) – The region’s premiere international gathering on sustainable tourism is back. The Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) has announced the return of its Caribbean Conference on Sustainable Tourism Development, otherwise known as the Sustainable Tourism Conference (STC), after a one year absence due to the global economic crisis.

The 11th annual conference (STC-11) will be held from May 9-12, 2010 in Bridgetown, Barbados and is being organised in collaboration with the Barbados Ministry of Tourism.

“We are delighted that we are able to once again bring together a wide range of experts and stakeholders to discuss the region’s sustainability,” said Hugh Riley, Secretary General of the CTO. “We thank the government of Barbados for hosting this very important conference in this difficult global economic climate.”

This year’s conference will examine critical issues relating to sustainability and will explore creative solutions to many of the challenges facing CTO Member Countries, including the effects of climate change.

“STC will continue with the focus on how Member States can design and incorporate sustainable tourism policies and practices into their regional and international initiatives,” said Gail Henry, the CTO’s Sustainable Tourism Product Specialist. “We recognize that the development of the tourism sector in the Caribbean has to continue on a sustainable path. The Caribbean has an opportunity to lead advancements in this area while also creating valuable employment opportunities.”

A comprehensive and dynamic programme is being planned to include the customary study tours – a key feature of this conference.

The annual Caribbean Conference on Sustainable Tourism Development is part of the information dissemination and regional awareness component of CTO’s Strategy for Sustainable Tourism. It looks at how member states can design and implement sustainable tourism policies and programmes, offering a regional forum for information exchange on the successes and pitfalls of national, regional and international initiatives.

For more information on CTO’s travel industry events in 2010, visit www.OneCaribbean.org.

About the Caribbean Tourism Organization

The Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO), with the headquarters in Barbados and marketing operations in New York, London and Toronto, is the Caribbean’s tourism development agency and comprises membership of over 30 governments and a myriad of private sector entities.

The CTO’s mission is to provide to and through its members, the services and information needed for the development of sustainable tourism for the economic and social benefit of the Caribbean people.

The organization provides specialized support and technical assistance to member countries in the areas of marketing, human resource development, research and statistics, information technology and sustainable tourism development. The CTO disseminates information on behalf of its member governments to consumers and the travel trade.

The CTO’s New York office is located at 80 Broad St., 32nd Floor, New York, NY 10004, USA: Tel: (212) 635-9530; Fax: (212) 635-9511; E-mail: ctony@caribtourism.com; CTO’s London office is located at The Quadrant, Richmond, Surrey TW9 1BP, England. Tel: 011 44 208 948 0057; Fax: 011 44 208 948 0067; E-mail: ctolondon@caribtourism.com; CTO Canada is located at 2 Bloor Street West, Suite 2601, Toronto, Ont. M4W 3E2, Canada. Tel: (416) 935 0767; Fax: (416) 935-0939; E-mail: ctotoronto@caribtourism.com. CTO Headquarters is located at One Financial Place, Collymore Rock, St, Michael, Barbados; Tel: (246) 427-5242; Fax: (246) 429-3065; E-mail: ctobarbados@caribtourism.com. For more information, please visit www.caribbeantravel.com or www.onecaribbean.org. Get the latest CTO updates on Twitter at http://www.twitter.com/ctotourism. Connect with CTO on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/CaribbeanTourismOrganization.

Media can also visit www.louhammond.com for latest press releases and images. Follow on Twitter at LouHammondPR.

Media Contact

Terence Gallagher/Michelle Horn

Lou Hammond Associates. Tel.(212) 308-8880
E mails: terryg@lhammond.com / michelleh@lhammond.com

CTO Press Contact: jjohnrose@caribtourism.com

MASS WITH THE MAYANS...SUNDAY IN TICUL

2010-01-02T20:16:00.001-08:00

Leaving Merida (Yucatan) on a hot and steamy October day, were driving south out of the city heading to a somewhat remote town of Ticul. Located 82 kilometers from Merida, it’s principally known for it’s locally made shoes, leather goods, a large Ex-Convent, which now serves as a Catholic church and it’s excellent collection of Mayan deities, found dotting the periphery of the church.

People leaving the Church after Sunday Mass

The trip from Merida takes approximately one and a half hours , is an easy drive through flat shrub jungle on good roads, going through small towns and landscapes loaded with Mayan ruins, many still undiscovered. Enroute is the town of Sacaluum, a pueblo with an imposing Church set up on a hill in the middle of town. Noteworthy is the make shift bull ring at the bottom of the hill, built with local trees and branches, looking as though the fencing could barely hold up to a charging dog, let alone a menacing bull.

Old and modern houses are seeing all over Ticul.

This is the main facade of the Church. As mass lets out, a cornucopia of colors floods your senses, the most striking being the Mayan women in their elaborately woven traditional dresses and garb. People of all ages, spring through the open doors and mingle on the lawn, catching up on the latest gossip or recipe. What few men there are, stand around with that timeless expression on their faces of get me outta here, I’m bored and I have better things to be doing.

Now, let's admire some of the Mayan Deities . Ah Puch (Yum Cimil) ,god of death and destruction, brought disease and was associated with war. Chac is the god of rain. Cizin (Kisin) is the god of death, linked with earthquakes .Hun-Hunahpú (Ah Mun) is hte god of maize and vegetation. Hunahpú and Xbalanqúe are the twin sons of Hun-Hunahpú, tricked the lords of the underworld Itzamná, the ruler of heaven, of night and day, and of the other deities. Ixchel, the goddess of fertility, pregnancy, and childbirth was also there, as well as Kinich Ahau, the god of the sun and sometimes considered an aspect of Itzamná.

While we were meeting all these gods, the mass continued. Within thirty minutes, the bicycles, motor bikes, Mayan Limo’s, and what few cars were there, have emptied the majority of the church goers, with the ones remaining hanging in the plaza or indulging in an ice cream, destined to be eaten immediately or worn home on ones Sunday attire.

Sunday is an excellent time to visit, as practically the whole town can be found in and around the Convent. As well as the church (Convent), there’s a large open air square (plaza) with people of all ages mingling around, while men with their three wheel bicycles,(Mayan Limousines’) eagerly await the mass exit from church, knowing that later on their legs will be tired but their pockets full of pesos. Every intersection within a two block radius has a Mayan deity, proudly standing guard, reminding one of their ancient ancestors and to maintain respect for the old. These beautifully made statuesque ceramic replicas of the Mayan gods are a sight to behold, and interestingly they are pretty much scratch free. This town is known for making the deities, using the exact methods employed more than a thousand years ago.

A Sunday in Ticul, observing the intermingling of an advanced ancient Mayan culture with its contemporary Catholicism, opens the eyes to the vast cultural and religious differences that still exist, and also coexist in a peaceful tradeoff with the Gods. Ticul is part of Route Puuc and the Convent Route, found near the caves of Lol Tun, a Mayan city of Uxmal Yaxnic Caves and cenotes Uayalce, among other things. Ticul is also well known for making shoes and leather garments.

Bill Milligan and Yndiana thank SEFOTUR by Ticul transportation from the city of Merida, and the Presidente Intercontinental Hotel and Maison Laffite for their stay.
ENDS

TULUM PART TWO: CHARMING HOTEL & SPA ANA Y JOSE

2009-12-04T19:53:00.001-08:00

After Ocho Tulum , leaving that beautiful strip of white sand and sun was difficult, but, we had to move on. Our next stop was Ana y Jose’s Charming Hotel & Spa, just a short distance from each other. Between checking in and out, we had time to take in the glorious sunset at Zebra bar with friends, and indulge in a cold margarita and cervezas. The salsa rhythms floated over the beach front, as patrons swayed to the music and the afternoon sun gently began its daily descent.

Reaching Ana y Jose’s, we were met by a very accommodating and pleasant Argentinean, who showed us the grounds and cabins, along with a brief history of the owners. We immediately felt at home and comfortable in this laid back setting. Kicking off the shoes, we headed for our room, a second floor, ocean facing suite that allowed all of the beauty and warmth of the Mexican Caribbean to engulf us. Initial inspection of the room, revealed a sunning deck with comfortable chairs, sliding glass doors, that opened to a king size bed, small breakfast nook, closets and well appointed shower, with natural soaps, shampoos, and creams. All rooms are provided with an expresso machine, which worked very well, giving a nice, thick crema. All rooms are practically laid out, with a simple but sophisticated design, allowing one to enjoy all of the intrinsic natural wonders. There are twenty-three rooms, all air conditioned, with safety deposit boxes, ceiling fans, mini-bar, and great views, whether near the swimming pool or overlooking the ocean. An open, large palapa restaurant, invites one for a snack, dinner, or drinks, or just smoozing with friends.

The cuisine was regional and very well done, with appropriately attentive service. One always felt ready to head to the restaurant for snacks and beer, and afterwards, a delightful walk on the beach, taking in the cooling ocean breezes and happy feet shuffling through the warm, turquoise waters. After a slow leisurely walk, one can return and indulge in corporal delights with a variety of therapeutic treatments, whether it is Deep tissue, Maya, or Stone massage, Reiki or Tropical Papaya Hydrating sessions. A five day stay at Anna y Jose’s is the antidote for our stressful living, and will ensure warm, nostalgic memories, coaxing the subconscious to keep reminding the consciousness that there is a better place, and a better way…

TULUM PART ONE

2009-12-04T19:27:00.000-08:00

TULUM, AN ESCAPE TO TRANQUILITY
By Bill Milligan and Yndiana Montes
Photos: Bill Milligan
www.solocaribe.com

Traveling south out of Cancun, on what is now known as the Rivera Maya, one parallels the beautiful Mexican Caribbean, and one and a half hours later, enters the town of Tulum. This enchanted town, formerly known as Zama (city of dawn) was used by the Mayans as a commercial port for Coba and surrounding areas. Tulum can be divided into the town itself, the archaeological site and the beachfront area, dotted with rustic boutique hotels, with the tourquoise waters as their front door and mangrove swamps and shrub jungle to their rear. Its location is now an easy drive from Cancun on a four lane well maintained highway. Continuing on the main highway (Carretera Federal), heading south, one enters the bioreserve called Sian Ka’an, with its own ruins, beautiful lagoons and jungle.

Sian Ka’an is now dedicated to preserving its inherent beauty and biodiversity, limiting tourist access to minimize environmental impact. Tours are operated daily by different groups, of which we used “Community Tours, Sian Ka’an”, a group of local Mayans, bilingual and historically knowledgeable, especially dedicated to this area. Small boats shuttle tourists across the lagoons into water canals, dug out over a thousand years ago, where one can float with life preservers down these twenty foot wide canals, where Mayan commerce was once was at its height. A gentle current carries you for approximately one hour, along this ancient, warm watered swim back into Mayan history. After the tour everyone returns to shore for a beautifully prepared Mayan lunch, with a most hospitable staff.
Returning to Tulum (20 minute drive), you enter the town proper along the main highway, and a right hand turn leads to the bucolic and bohemian boutique hotels that dot the pristine coast. There are around forty hotels, the majority with solar and wind generated electricity, again limiting environmental impact to this ancient area. The drive along this narrow, two lane road, parallels the Caribbean, with palms and shrub jungle on both sides, as you weave your way down what was once a dirt and pot holed path. Once you step out of your car, the shoes come off, the shirt unbuttons, and your nostrils open to the pure and slightly salty air, that baths your body and sends that pent up energy straight down to the fine white grained sand, where stood an advanced culture more than a thousand years ago. Your first walk along the soft sanded, white beaches, with the turquoise waters lapping at your feet, transports you to another world, inhabited by the gentle sounds of water, vast open skies, warm nurturing sun and a tranquility of mind that one rarely encounters. Your have arrived at a destination designed for calming body, mind and soul.

Continuing our beach walk, we pass one boutique hotel after another, we stop to talk with Ramiro Pacheco, an Argentinian born energy worker who also works in Tulum . He and his wife and three kids have lived in the area for ten years, under austere conditions, utilizing a generator for basic electrical services. Acclimation of the adults was much easier than for the kids, but they are still adjusting to living in the jungle neighborhood. Ramiro is well known locally and in Cancun, for his energy work and massages, with clients driving several hours for an appointment.

Who is Bill Milligan M.D?

2009-11-25T05:11:00.000-08:00

WILLIAM MILLIGAN M.D was born and raised in Houston, Texas for the first eighteen years of his life. Following high school and a year of college, he joined the U.S. Navy and spent approximately four years as a radar-man onboard a Landing Ship Dock, (LSD), ironically during the Haight-Ashbury era. He spent much time traveling throughout the Caribbean and Europe, which opened his eyes to a vast new world as compared to Houston.

Following his discharge (honorable) from the Navy, he returned to Houston to begin College. While in college, he began training as a respiratory technician in San Joseph’s Hospital. This introduced him to a totally new world, one which would ultimately lead him into medicine, through a series of serendipitous events. While working in respiratory therapy, he developed an intense interest in other aspects of medicine, as he was exposed to residents and interns, in a teaching hospital. While working there, he entertained the idea of beginning pre-med courses at the University of Houston, which was shelved due to his limited GI bill resources. He then looked to foreign medical schools, which at that time the optimal was the Autonomous University of Guadalajara, Mexico. Due to limited resources, that was his choice, and four later he found himself doing an internship in Canada, followed by a Social Service of one year in Mexico, working with the indigent, and later a three year residency in Family Medicine, in Voorhees, New Jersey.

Following his residency, he entered into private practice, in Cherry Hill, N.J., where he spent the next twenty-five years in solo practice. He has always been interested in alternative medicine and proper diet, along with a holistic outlook, which he was able to utilize in his practice. During that time he entered into Qi Gong training, with a Master from China, in Philadelphia. After many years of training, he found Eden Energy Medicine, which took him on a completely different journey into the realms of our innate healing systems. For the past eight years this has been his passion. He is one of a few Medical Doctors in the world, who is certified in Energy Medicine. Bill edits an energy medicine website through the energy collaborative, which specifically works with physicians who are interested in energy medicine.

Bill now splits his time between Wilmington, North Carolina and Quintana Roo, Mexico. While in Wilmington his time is divided between playing congas and African drumming, being part of a steering committee for alternative medicine, photography, high end audio and recording world music. He shares his new life with his partner, Yndiana Montes, a noted journalist and videographer from Caracas, Venezuela. Both are now working on projects to help promote ecotourism, sustainable living, and alternative medicine in Mexico. They are now launching a new project, www.solocaribemexico.com, which is the sister website of .www.solocaribe.com. Even with all the troubled times in the world, Bill has a deep love for Mexico, its culture, phenomenal beauty and diversity and its people.

Who is Yndiana Montes?

2009-11-25T04:59:00.000-08:00

YNDIANA MONTES (Indiana Montezuniga) has been with the tourism industry for more than twenty years as a contributor to the sustainable tourism industry development in the Caribbean. She has concentrated on showcasing the natural way of living and travelling among the Caribbean Islands. She has created her own web site, www.SoloCaribe.com, specifically for promoting the Caribbean way of living, along with contributing many articles and interviews with VIPs and the leaders of the tourism industry in the most respected and recognized tourism publications. Her publications have been found on three continents and in Spanish, Portuguese and English.

Yndiana has become one of the most well known and respected tourism specialists in the Caribbean. As a journalist she attends the most important conferences, promoted by the Caribbean Hotel Association (CHA) and the Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO). Her work has been recognized with the following awards: “Huesped Distinguida” (Distinguished Guest) of Santo Domingo City (Dominican Republic, 1998), and the “Star Journalist” in the Annual Conference of Tourism in Aruba (CATA, 1999 and 2000). She was also given recognition for the support to the tourism development in Jamaica (1997), and the Caribbean Hotel Association (CHA), along with the Caribbean Media Exchange (CMEx).

She was also been recognized for her contribution to the support of tourism industry in the Caribbean through her TV program “Caribbean World”, aired by Caribbean Traveling Network Dominicano and TeleAruba . Most recently she completed a 62 chapter series of the TV shows “A Toda Costa” and “Mundo Verde” in her native country Venezuela.

Almost two decades ago Yndiana was the founder editor of Curacao Today and Bonaire Today, the sister papers of Aruba Today, a full color daily newspaper dedicated to the tourism industry development in Aruba, where she lived for two years. She also aired two radio shows on Hit 94 and Channel 90 in Aruba, during the two years she lived and worked on this Dutch Island (1999-2001). She collaborates with her two sons, Raul and Cristobal, who have been instrumental in supporting her with both camera work and audiovisual production for promotional videos. Her son Raul lives in Venezuela and Cristobal in North Carolina.

Through out these years Yndiana have been working as an executive, and the official representative of tourism for the Island of Trinidad and Tobago (TIDCO and TDC). Before that she worked with Captain Don’s Habitat, Captain Don’s Habitat Bonaire, Holiday Inn Aruba and Holiday Inn Sun Spree of Montego Bay for Latin America. She has launched important Caribbean websites along with doing E-newsletters for Islands and products.

In 1974, she went from Caracas, Venezuela, to Santa Barbara, California to study and learn English. She finished her Senior Year (12th grade) in Laguna Blanca School) in 1975, and them went to Santa Barbara City College for another year.

While in the U.S. she learned about healthy foods, yoga, and exercise, which introduced her to a whole new life style. In 1978 she was given a scholarship to study Paper Engineering in Spain. After college she returned to Caracas, but traded in Engineering for Journalism at the Central University in Caracas. As a child she began working around and with journalism with her father, who had a well respected social and political radio show called Radioperiodico Orientacion.

Along with journalism she began working in printing and broadcasting media communications; radio, TV, newspapers and magazines. She always included a segment on Healthy Life (“Vida Sana con Indiana”), whether it is TV, radio or print.

AND NOW…

No matter what island she was working with, she was always seeking natural health food stores, yoga, and better ways to eat. While in Buenos Aires, Argentina, in 2004, she discovered the wonders of Ayurvedic medicine through an Ayurvedic doctor. Since then she has been following the Ayurvedic way, which has made dramatic changes in her health. After doing a seminar with Dr. Prerak Shah, she went to Gujarat, India (Ahmedabad), for Ayurvedic training, which included self-massage and shirodhara.

In 2007, Yndiana was the presenter of Ayurveda and Tourism at the Sustainable Development Tourism Conference held in Cayman Islands.

In 2009 she met her present partner, Bill Milligan, who is a retired family physician from New Jersey, who has been involved with holistic medicine for fifteen years, and Eden Energy Medicine for eight years. She now has discovered the beauty of our body’s natural energetic systems, which includes Chakras, Meridians, Auras, “strange flows”, along with others. She now is on another path, all part of taking care of oneself, through knowledge of Ancient systems, some more than five thousand years old.

Yndiana and Bill now split their time between the Mexican Caribbean and Wilmington, North Carolina and also promote alternative medicine (Integrative Healing Forum of Wilmington), and Ecotourism.

MERIDA'S HUARACHAS

2009-11-11T20:39:00.000-08:00

MERIDA'S HUARACHAS Text and photos: Bill & Yndie

http://www.solocaribe.com/

The story takes us back to 1542 when "El Mozo" as he was nicknamed, Francisco de Montejo founded Merida, a Spanish colonial city that exudes tradition in its streets, plazas and avenues, which belies its cosmopolitan reality. Its reputation of peace and serenity has led many Mexicans to move there, looking for the security long lost in the major cities. Not only Mexicans but also Europeans and Americans seeking something more than sun, sea and sand, are beginning to gravitate to this enchanted city, captivated by its nightlife, theater, cinema, street performers, restaurants, and people watching. Being a university town, keeps a younger spirit, intermixed with locals, expatriates, businessmen and outlying Indians dressed in their traditional garb, selling their wares on the streets and plazas. Merida is also well known for its textiles, leather and handicrafts, which are very reasonably priced, due to it's being off the tourist route. This is an old, well kept, clean and lovely city, which has something for everyone, and deserves at least a three day stay, especially on a Sunday, to get to know it better.

That's why, every year possible, Bill Milligan M.D. returns to this city with his huaraches, seeking the perfect shine, only to be found in the main plaza, with its variety of shoe shine boys and men. His latest pair of huaraches was bought on his previous trip in February of this year, while attending Merida's five day carnival. Since that time he hasn't had a shine. He loves his huaraches and they have become his summer and spring favorites, as he says, their simplicity, soft leather and comfort, become a natural extension of his feet, whether walking short or long distances, around the house or outside working in the yard. The soles are made of old, thick tire treads, which last forever, and the uppers, of soft, pliable leather, that molds to the foot and allows the environment to flow through, cooling and massaging the foot. Were it not for the cold weather, he would live in them year around.

At times he sounds like a tour guide for Merida, obviously in love with this city, and enjoying his return to "center city", reminding him of previously living in Philadelphia, and now living in downtown Wilmington, North Carolina. His previous carnival trip here, he describes as civilized and both adult and family oriented, which he viewed from the balcony of his hotel, overlooking the carnival route, while enjoying a glass of vino. He was "hooked" on Merida after his last trip, thinking of what it would be like to own a center city, Spanish courtyard type of house, perhaps converting it to a wine bar with local artists decorating the massive interior courtyard walls with their indigenous and more sophisticated pieces of art. He's a dreamer, but a realist, and has seen many previous dreams come to fruition with time.

The culinary delights of this city are impressive, with regional Mayan dishes predominating, but tucked away are special jewels, of which our favorite was Amaro, serving a combination of regional and vegetarian dishes in a large courtyard, under a huge hundred year old tree, while listening to a guitarist sing beautiful Cuban ballads. This became our respite from the outside and sometimes noisy city. Once you walk through the ancient wooden doors and take that first sip of vino, you are transported to another time, limited only by your imagination. Restaurant Amaro, was an eighteenth century mansion, where Andres Quintana Roo was born, a journalist, poet and dreamer, and where his spirit still lingers in that courtyard. He became an Ambassador and congressman with a devout social sensitivity, which eventually led to the southern part of the Yucatan, being named after him.

Two vinos later we exited those ancient walls and headed for the main plaza, with one thing in mind, ShoeShine, shoeshine and shoeshine. We weren't disappointed, as the plaza was full of people, activity, and shoeshiners. Now came the hard part, which one could take on the task of lovingly clean, rehydrate and shine my most coveted pair of shoes. Finding the right person requires the analytical mind to step aside and permit the right brain to intuit the correct path, which occurred within minutes of entering the plaza. Even haggling over the price was avoided, as he knew he would get the "gringo fee", but it was OK. Twenty pesos seemed a fair price, the equivalent of one dollar and sixty cents, and it was settled.

As he sat back in the chair on that beautiful, sunny day, in that lovely tree lined plaza, I knew everything would be fine. Dialogue was minimal, he knew he had a task in front of him, and here sat a foreigner with a Latina, which was probably a bit discombobulating for him, but it would all be over in a matter of fifteen or twenty minutes and he would be putting a twenty peso bill in his pocket. As he began cleaning one shoe, it was evident that he was serious about his work, rarely looking up, even when hit with mundane questioning.

Stepping down off the chair, it was obviously one of the best shoe shines he had ever had in Mexico. That sense of guilt about not taking care of my huaraches was now gone, and he felt relief, at least for the present, before he started putting them through the everyday grind again. Now it was time to enjoy the delights of the plaza and its people.

All over the plaza, activity was buzzing, from the vendors with their small stands, selling handmade jewelry, purses and clothing, to the taco stands with their mixture of aromas, beckoning one to step closer for further gustatory inspection. All ages, sizes, shapes, and colors were represented, many with traditional Indian garb from their respective villages, each unique in its own way. Classical music could be heard coming from a remote area of the square, which was the Friday afternoon special, presented by the local orchestra. Looking across the square, one could see them, all in starched uniforms, seated underneath one of the large arches of a government building. Another small group, with men in all white garb and women in beautifully embroidery dresses were wandering around the plaza, playing folkloric music and dancing from Oaxaca. This was a special group, specially trained in regional music and dance, which came from Mexico City as a cultural exchange program with Merida. After strolling through the plaza, we headed for the sorbet café, located outside and underneath one of the grand arches, where we indulged in a mango sorbet and double espresso.

The main plaza in Merida, built by the Spaniards, houses a magnificent Cathedral, the oldest in Latin America, along with an imposing two story governmental building, the Palacio municipal, which occupies one complete side of the plaza. Lovers chairs are sprinkled around the interior of the plaza, where young and old alike, sit facing each other but separated physically by a concrete arm, which insures minimal touch, in case the chaperones attention has been diverted. This is a place for one to go sit, relax, walk; people watch or play, if of the appropriate age. There is a civility here, which is accepted by all, and makes this a very special place for people to congregate. Merida has all the trappings of a bustling little city, whether it be a new and imposing Theatre, an old and prestigious University in downtown, an up and coming art district, impressive museums, numerous café and espresso bars, restaurants of all varieties, art galleries, major department stores (Sears, Liverpool, Homedepot,etc.), and a fine cigar and wine bar. It has a bit of everything for everyone and surely deserves a stay, making sure a Sunday is included, as streets are closed, traffic diverted, and pedestrians and bicycle riders take to the streets. And when tired of the urban life, take to the highways, as the surrounding terrain extending from Merida outwards for a one to two hour journey, is loaded with interesting towns and ruins, many still undiscovered, and lovely people who complete this archaic journey back to pre-Columbian times.

# # #

Bill & Yndie thank SEFOTUR for their support on this trip. Also Maison Lafitte and Hotel Intercontinental Presidente for their stay; as well as Turistransmerida for their transportation from Merida to Chichen Itza.

Amaro Restaurant: Calle 69 by 60 and 62. Centro Histórico, Merida.